Dungeons and Down Jackets

Giambattista Valli moonlights as a coat designer for Moncler's high-end Gamme Rouge collection and every season he does a really unique presentation. Last season it was in an artist's studio in the 14th Arrondissement. This season Valli brought us to the basement of the Paris Opera house, Napoleon III's enormous Palais Garnier. It felt like a dungeon the way Valli had outfitted the place with smoke, video installations that shot snowflakes across the ceilings, and even a live horse. The inspiration—a 1969 piece of performance art by Jannis Kounellis—felt a little far-fetched and I'm still not sure about the connection between 1960s performance art and down jackets, but what the heck? It was mysterious and intriguing to prowl through the corridors and suddenly come upon...a cluster of hand-crafted down coats carefully posed on mannequins. I also liked the male model props dressed in 19th century military garb and posed on military cots. The jackets had embroidery, fur lining, even long sweeping ball gown-style skirts. Some of the coats had fur linings and matching fur photo printed fabrics. At the end visitors were greeted by waiters holding plates of fresh raspberries and glasses of fresh raspberry juice. Valli has a unique touch.