Real Design

Francisco Costa's work at Calvin Klein represents real design. His collection yesterday paid homage to architecture and volume and to fabric and construction. With his icy palette Costa allowed the viewer to take in some very complicated patternmaking and construction. And as such, Costa tapped into an origami/sculptural trend that has been unfolding in other design-oriented disciplines like architecture, furniture design and fine jewelry design. At first glance, the silk and wool dresses with squared off volumes billowing out of sleeves and hems seemed awkward. But Costa developed his vision as the show progressed. The last passage of short, strapless dresses in duchesse silk were exquisite examples of craftsmanship and form. A good fashion show like this one forces you to really look at an idea, digest it and, by the finale, to appreciate it. Costa's proposal was both high concept in it's design, but also practical in that he offered up a new way to dress for evening that is both more casual than a floor-length gown and yet still glamorous.

Calvin Klein
Randy Brooke/WireImage

Calvin Klein
Randy Brooke/WireImage

Calvin Klein
Slavin Vlasic/Getty for IMG